Vaccinations: Vaccinations for puppies are spread over three sessions. The first occurs at 7-9 weeks, the second is generally recommended to be given at 10-12 weeks and the third at around 13-15 weeks of age. Please be aware that your puppy is not fully immunized until all three vaccinations have been given. We provide the first vaccinations (canine distemper, infectious canine hepatitis, respiratory disease caused by canine adenovirus type 2, parainfluenza and parvovirus infections) for our puppies. I encourage the puppy ownersto have subsequent vaccinations given by a licensed Veterinarian on a schedule they recommend.

Even though all puppies need to be socialized at an early age, it is best to avoid taking your pet to the park, walks in the neighborhood, or around other unknown pets until it has been fully vaccinated and has a fully developed immune system (16 weeks of age). Until your new puppy has a full set of vaccinations, its immune system is not properly equipped to handle diseases. Your puppy could easily get worms, parvovirus, or Coccidia from contaminated feces or ground. I have made every effort to insure that your puppy will not be exposed to any disease. Unfortunately, these diseases can live in stray animal feces and on the ground for many days, even years and can be easily transmitted to a puppy.

Chihuahua Breed Standard
A graceful, alert, swift-moving compact little dog with saucy expression, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament.
Size, Proportion, Substance
Weight – A well balanced little dog not to exceed 6 pounds. Proportion – The body is off-square; hence, slightly longer when measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, than height at the withers. Somewhat shorter bodies are preferred in males. Disqualification – Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.
Head
A well rounded "apple dome" skull, with or without molera. Expression – Saucy. Eyes - Full, round, but not protruding, balanced, set well apart-luminous dark or luminous ruby. Light eyes in blond or white-colored dogs permissible. Blue eyes or a difference in the color of the iris in the two eyes, or two different colors within one iris should be considered a serious fault. Ears – Large, erect type ears, held more upright when alert, but flaring to the sides at a 45 degree angle when in repose, giving breadth between the ears. Stop – Well defined. When viewed in profile, it forms a near 90 degree angle where muzzle joins skull. Muzzle – Moderately short, slightly pointed. Cheeks and jaws lean. Nose – Self-colored in blond types, or black. In moles, blues, and chocolates, they are self-colored. In blond types, pink noses permissible. Bite – Level or scissors. Overshot or undershot, or any distortion of the bite or jaw, should be penalized as a serious fault. A missing tooth or two is permissible. Disqualifications – Broken down or cropped ears.
Neck, Topline, Body
Neck – Slightly arched, gracefully sloping into lean shoulders. Topline – Level. Body – Ribs rounded and well sprung (but not too much "barrel-shaped"). Tail – Moderately long, carried sickle either up or out, or in a loop over the back with tip just touching the back.
(Never tucked between legs.) Disqualifications – Docked tail, bobtail.
Forequarters
Shoulders – Lean, sloping into a slightly broadening support above straight forelegs that set well under, giving free movement at the elbows. Shoulders should be well up, giving balance and soundness, sloping into a level back (never down or low). This gives a well developed chest and strength of forequarters. Feet – A small, dainty foot with toes well split up but not spread, pads cushioned. (Neither the hare nor the cat foot.) Dewclaws may be removed. Pasterns – Strong.
Hindquarters
Muscular, with hocks well apart, neither out nor in, well let down, firm and sturdy. Angulation – Should equal that of forequarters. The feet are as in front. Dewclaws may be removed.
Coat
In the Smooth Coats, the coat should be of soft texture, close and glossy. (Heavier coats with undercoats permissible.) Coat placed well over body with ruff on neck preferred, and more scanty on head and ears. Hair on tail preferred furry. In Long Coats, the coat should be of a soft texture, either flat or slightly wavy, with undercoat preferred.Ears – Fringed. Tail – Full and long (as a plume). Feathering on feet and legs, pants on hind legs and large ruff on the neck desired and preferred. (The Chihuahua should be groomed only to create a neat appearance.) Disqualification – In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.
Color
Any color - Solid, marked or splashed.
Gait
The Chihuahua should move swiftly with a firm, sturdy action, with good reach in front equal to the drive from the rear. From the rear, the hocks remain parallel to each other, and the foot fall of the rear legs follows directly behind that of the forelegs. The legs, both front and rear, will tend to converge slightly toward a central line of gravity as speed increases. The side view shows good, strong drive in the rear and plenty of reach in the front, with head carried high. The topline should remain firm and the backline level as the dog moves.
Temperament
Alert, projecting the ‘terrier-like’ attitudes of self importance, confidence, self-reliance.
Disqualifications
Any dog over 6 pounds in weight.
Broken down or cropped ears.
Docked tail, bobtail.
In Long Coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness.
Approved August 12, 2008
Effective October 1, 2008

Low Blood Sugar or Hypoglycemia: Toy breeds have such a small fat reserve around their liver which can cause them to have low blood sugar. This symptom can occur at any time.
Symptoms: Sudden lethargy, lack of coordination (stumbling, falling, staggering), followed by seizures, coma and death if not treated immediately.
Treatment: Although you should always consult your veterinarian for the proper treatment of your Chihuahua you can use (i.e. Nutri-Cal, Nutri-Stat, Vitacal, Karo Syrup, honey, sugar water) to boost the blood sugar level if warning signs start or have caught you off guard. The Nutri-Cal supplement is essential for any pet owner's medicine chest. It is specially formulated to give your pet the nutrition it needs and fast. It has been known to bring a puppy suffering from low blood sugar immediately out of the beginning stages of a coma. It also has high potency vitamins, minerals, fats, and carbohydrates which your puppy needs. Because it is high in vitamin B, Nutri-Cal can actually stimulate your pet to start eating right again. When taking your tiny puppy home, especially those weighing less than a pound and a half ask your breeder for a tube of Nutri-Cal. It can very easily save his life. It costs less than $5.00, much less than an emergency trip to the vet. Nutri-Cal is especially beneficial for pets that are stressed due to a change in environment, a new home, shipping or recovering from an illness or injury. It is also specially formulated to be gentle on sensitive digestive tracts. For very severe cases of low blood sugar, your veterinarian may need to give your puppy an IV of a sugar solution. Always when in doubt call your VETERINARIAN

"Teacup" Chihuahuas
I seem to receive many emails asking for “teacup Chihuahuas”. There really is no such thing as a tea-cup Chihuahua. The word tea-cup has been used for years as a selling tactic by people to make their dogs sound more rare, or better then another person's so they can ask outrageously high prices for them. In reality these puppies are not tiny and will grow to larger sizes. Some people have become very good at this, making themselves sound reputable, and their dogs very desirable. The average Chihuahua breeder gets small Chihuahuas, so in reality, they are rather common, but the reputable breeders advertise them as "small" and not using some bogus term such as "Teacup". The tiny Chihuahuas definitely require more care from birth to keep them growing strong and healthy. The term “survival of the fittest” comes into play and many times these tiny Chihuahuas require additional supplements from the breeder. The Chihuahua standard itself lists 2 to 6lbs as being the recognized weight for a Chihuahua, so anything in that weight range is fairly common. Any breeder that advertises and promotes their dogs as being "teacups" is not the right breeder to purchase a dog from because they have the wrong motives. Please take great caution when buying a tiny Chihuahua from a breeder that advertises “teacups” to make sure they are reputable and the puppy is healthy. You should always receive a health certificate from the breeders vet upon purchase (it is the law in Florida) and make sure that when you take the puppy in for your vet check upon purchase that there is a refund policy of the puppy is found to be unhealthy.
There are only two recognized varieties of the Chihuahua, which are the Long Coat and Short Coat Chihuahua. There is no such thing as Toy, Miniature, or Standard Chihuahuas. The terms Toy, Miniature and Standard are the sizes of Poodles, not Chihuahuas!!

Luxation of the patella: When it occurs, the kneecap in the rear legs slips out of its groove, which can effect the Chihuahua's mobility and even temperament. Chihuahuas that jump a lot can aggravate this problem. If your Chihuahua is one of the unlucky few whose kneecaps slip often, surgery is the solution. A Chihuahua with a mild case can live a normal life. Luxation of the patella is a relatively common problem in small breeds like the Chihuahua and some large ones as well. 

Soft Spot or Fontanel: There is an opening in the skull of a Chihuahua, a hole, a molera. This opening is in the center of the Chihuahua's forehead. The molera can be very tiny to very large. The edges of the molera can be round and smooth or even jagged. The molera was once considered to be a "mark of being purebred." However, there are many Chihuahuas that have been well bred and they have little or no molera!

There is only one molera on a Chihuahua because if there is more than one molera this isn't normal. The Chihuahua's molera or fontanel, is considered a breed characteristic and not a defect. Most Chihuahuas have a molera- a soft spot on the top of their head which is similar to the soft spot that human babies are born with. There are many Chihuahuas that are born without the molera but there are just as many Chihuahuas born with one and its presence is nothing to be alarmed over. Most moleras in Chihuahuas do shrink as they mature but it doesn't always close completely. It can be between a nickel and dime size but the molera can vary in shape and size. The molera shouldn't be any larger than the size of your thumb print, and there shouldn't be any swelling, bulging or throbbing. The molera isn't going to be a problem as long as you are gentle when petting and handling your Chihuahua's head.
It is very unfortunate, that there are many lay people and some Veterinarians that are not familiar with the Chihuahua breed and they have tried to link the very presense of a molera with conditon known as hydrocephalus ~ "water head" or water on the brain. There is also a term of open fontanel. (Open fontanels allow the skull to give during the birth to some degree so the puppy can pass through the birth canal. Generally this opening quickly closes up and calcify to make a strong skull.) This has caused many people who aren't familiar with the Chihuahua breed and the molera, serious concern and undo worry. The truth is that a domed head with a molera present doesn't predispose the Chihuahua to this condition. 

Above information provided by AKC.